Do you know how to? If not, then no worries, we can help you out. Installing a new vanity top is the best way to spark things up in the bathroom. Most people opt for doing the task themselves to cut back on labor costs. You might want to give up, abandon your tools, and call in the plumber when you feel like the job is too tough for you.
So, keep reading. Before you go about installing your new vanity top, you need to make sure that the measurements for the new one are the same as the old one.
For this purpose, take out your measuring tape and note down the length and the width of the old vanity top. If you have more space available, you may go for a larger top, but the best route is to stick to the original dimensions. The first step is disconnecting the drainage. Start by turning off the water supply valves and opening the faucet to relieve pressure.
You can now unhook the pop-up stopper and disengage it from the lever with that done. After that, disassemble the drain P-trap by removing the compression nuts.
Once it is free, pull it down and let it tip into a bucket. The last step in disengaging the drainage is unscrewing the faucet hoses from the shutoff valves. Next up, you need to cut through the caulk. A small utility knife is more than enough for the job. While doing so, make sure not to damage the drywall too much. You can either use a chisel to remove it or opt for sanding it down with a pad sander.
When the wall is all clean, you may position the new vanity top in place. Then, fix it into place by drilling in the screw at the appropriate places.
When you are done with the screws, move on to sealing the edge of the top. Simply run some silicone caulk in the gap. Connect the water supply lines to the faucet, and connect the sink drain to the drain trap and the branch drain, following the manufacturer's instructions. If your vanity came with a separate backsplash, apply a bead of construction adhesive in a serpentine pattern to the back of the backsplash and press it firmly into place against the wall.
Apply a bead of silicone caulk where the countertop meets the wall. If there is a backsplash, caulk along all joints where the backsplash meets the wall and where it meets the countertop. Let the caulk cure for 24 hours before using the vanity. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile. Select personalised ads.
Apply market research to generate audience insights. Measure content performance. Develop and improve products. List of Partners vendors. Project Overview. Tip When replacing your bathroom vanity, it's also a good idea to check the plumbing supply lines, p-trap, and other piping that connect to the sink. Featured Video. Materials Vanity with countertop and sink Wood shims 2-inch drywall screws Filler strip as needed Wood finish materials as needed Wood blocking Silicone caulk Faucet Water supply tubes Sink drain assembly.
Locate the Wall Studs Use an electronic stud finder to locate at least one wall stud on the wall behind the vanity location. Tip Some vanity kits come with filler strips made of the same material as the cabinet.
Tip Some vanity kits come with brackets that screw to the bottom of the countertop from beneath the sink. Related Topics. Lift the countertop back up and orient it in the right direction. Carefully hold the countertop over the sink. If you can, enlist a friend to help you with this since the more accurate your initial placement is, the better your seal with the vanity will be.
Lower the countertop into place and adjust it as needed. Slowly lower the countertop into place, letting one end down first and then sliding the countertop into place against the wall.
Silicone caulk starts to dry quickly, but you have minutes to adjust the countertop before it starts setting. Slide the countertop to the proper location where you want it to permanently rest. Seal the joint around the bottom of the countertop with silicone.
With the countertop in place, take your caulk gun and bend down under the overhang. Apply silicone caulk to the seams where the overhang meets the vanity. Use your finger to smooth the caulk out and wipe any excess silicone away with a paper towel or your finger. If your wall is even and the counter is flush though, this is optional. Leave your vanity alone for 24 hours to give the silicone time to dry.
Wipe off any excess silicone with caulk and clean up your materials. Leave the room and let the countertop dry for at least 24 hours. Part 3. Measure the diameter of the opening at the bottom of the drain pipe to determine the size of the pipes that you need to get for your sink.
Unless you have a custom vanity or a unique model, the diameter is probably going to be 1. You need one pipe to connect to the drain line, a J-pipe called a trap to keep a little water in the pipes and prevent odors from coming up, and a final length of pipe to connect to the drain in the wall. Check to see if your drain has threading or not.
Get pipes with threading instead of smooth connections. Slide washers or gaskets over the threaded section of each pipe. Open the bottom cabinet doors and set your pipes down. If you have washers and gaskets, slide each gasket with the threading facing up over the opening of each pipe.
Place a washer inside the lining of the gasket. Screw the straight pipe at the top into your drain pipe. Start with the straight pipe designed to fit into your drain pipe. With the washer on top of the gasket, slide the pipe up to the drain pipe and turn the gasket clockwise. Turn it as hard as you can to adhere the straight pipe to the drain pipe.
Glue or screw the wall connector to the drain line in the wall. With your straight pipe installed, take a look at the pipe in your wall where the water will come out. If it has threading, screw the pipe into the drain line the same way you installed the drain pipe. Use PVC glue to cover the end of an unthreaded pipe. Slide the pipe into the drain line with the glued side on the inside. Install your J-pipe to finish the drain assembly.
Screw the trap into the drain pipe using the washer and gasket. Once the J-pipe is partially screwed into the drain pipe, rotate the pipe and use the slack left in the threading to line the drain line with the other end of the J-pipe.
Screw your supply lines into the faucet. Supply lines are flexible tubes that screw into the sink handles and water supply lines. Place your faucet into the openings at the back of the countertop and screw the other ends of the supply lines into the faucet. Install your faucet with caulk and add the pop up drain. Apply silicone caulk to the bottom of the faucet and press it into the countertop to set it in place. If you have a pop up drain, hook the clevis strap to the screw in the lift rod and screw them together.
Slide the pivot rod through the clevis strap and place a clip around the opening on the opposite side of the clevis strap to hold them in place. If you have one, the pivot rod will already be attached in the drain pipe, so you only need to slide it through the strap.
Run the sink for seconds to test the pipes and look for leaks. Turn the handles on the supply pipes to open the hot and cold water. Run your water for seconds to see if there are any leaks.
0コメント