The most balanced car will be achieved by having the COM right in the middle of the four wheels, and understeer or oversteer behaviours can be induced by moving the COM towards the front or the rear. For example, if the car has too much oversteer while staying within traction limits bring the COM rearwards. This will naturally take a lot of time and fine tuning for each car.
Take a Feltzer and drive it around a track at high speed with the small spoiler option, then do the same with the large spoiler option. Because the large spoiler on the Feltzer is so large, it completely changes the way the car feels by shifting its COM to the rear significantly. What is a normally fairly planted car with a small spoiler becomes quite difficult to control.
That is an extreme example of how body modifications change the way cars behave. While most modifications affect things to a much smaller degree, changing a lot of things all at once can bring about extreme results. Other - Most cosmetic mods will change COM too, for example bug catchers in muscle cars will move the COM forwards, while big shakotan exhausts will move it rearwards. Obviously different effects will come from the relative sizes of these modifications.
A larger front bumper will shift the COM more towards the front than a smaller front bumper will. The opposite effect can happen too, where an option to remove a front bumper will actually shift the COM towards the rear. Piling on every modification possible will make most cars feel more restrictive and steering response will feel worse. A Pisswasser Dominator with full neons will be much more stable than one without, and a lot of cars that naturally oversteer will feel a lot better with just a single rear neon applied and everything else left as is.
The closer to the ground the COM is, the more stable the car will be when cornering. However when doing this with suspension the steering response will feel heavier the lower you go. A balance will need to be found through experimentation. While applying the maximum braking upgrades will give you more braking force, that can sometimes be a bad thing.
An obvious example of this is the Slamvan, which has a tendency to lock its brakes very easily when applying full brake pressure. In cars where full brake pressure will lock up the brakes, applying the brake upgrades will only make it so that less brake pressure is needed to lock up the brakes. You basically have less of a window. Apart from these obvious exceptions, some drivers actually prefer less braking force in general to allow them to trail brake into corners for smoothness, while others prefer full brakes to get stopped quickly before the corner and sort it out when they get there.
Traction Bias - Whether the front or rear wheels have more grip. Slip Angle - The amount of steering angle needed to reach maximum grip.
Anti-Roll - The amount of grip being sacrificed to improve stability. Cosmo - Default. You can adjust these to make your car understeer by having the front Bars High and the rear Low. You can increase the oversteer by doing the opposite.
Since this is according to your driving style i'll let you decide which to use. This is quite effective as the higher the Negative Camber is, more of the tire stays on the road when cornering. You don't want to set this too high though as your car won't drive in a straight line. I've found that a angle of 3.
This should factor in to how high you set the camber angle. You should also be prepared to drive with a little more tire wear in the longer races. You can have a "Toe-in" which is when the front of the tire are further in than the back of tire. Inversely "Toe-out" is when the front of the tire is out further than the back. If you want the car to understeer generally you should have a Toe-in for the front and rear tires, this will also make your car more stable on corners.
A level of. I use a level of -. Final Thoughts-Your suspension is very important and you can find significant gains in this section if you take the time out to tune your car and constantly adjust settings to find what works. You should spend time here getting your car to handle the way you want it to. Brakes Naturally,since these are things that stop your car, these are a vitally important part of any car especially a race car.
Having enough stopping power can shave vital seconds off of your lap times or just make your races easier. I'm not sure why they got rid of the purchaseable Brake Kit but you can control the Brake Balance Controller which is just as important as anything for controlling your car. As a result you can control whether your car will understeer or oversteer by your decision in this area.
If you put the Front and Rear brakes to the front then your car will understeer but your brakes will have a significant amount of stopping power. If you put the balance to rear for both brakes then your car will oversteer somewhat but your brakes will be weak. It's a good idea to have the Front Brakes at 3 or below and the Rear at 7 or above if you want your car to oversteer. The inverse will also be true if you want to understeer. Tires All the power in the world doesn't mean anything if you don't have a good set tires to transfer that power to the road.
Here you can buy various sets of tires for your car. There are many types and the situation for each will be somewhat different. In previous GT games these would have been a nicer version of simulation tires. These will be your best friend during endurance races as nothing sucks more than having to pit every 5 laps. Don't let the price tag fool you, these tires are worth all the money and then some. The grip they offer is amazing and will make your car take corners like nothing. They have a really crappy degradation rate though as they won't last more than a couple of laps.
But for every race that's 5 laps I strongly recommend using these tires. Drivetrain Characteristics I've been thinking of ways to improve the FAQ and an explanation of the different types of drivetrains and how they affect the handling of the car seemed like a good idea.
With that being said I'll try to explain the acronym and also give some insight into how it affects the performance of the car. I'll only cover the Drivetrains which are in the game as there a couple that are missing but these are variations of the ones listed. These are also commonly called layouts also.
FF Front-Engine, Front-Wheel Drive Description-As it's name implies with this drivetrain the engine is housed in the front of the car and that's also where the torque is transferred. This is popular for most mass produced consumer cars as they are very easy to drive. The understeer can be a curse for some people and a blessing for others which speaks for itself. Most of the cars will become obsolete later in the game with the exception of the Honda Civic Integra Type R '04 and the Civic Type R EK '97 as when these cars are race modded they can easily outperform mid level cars and on some courses can even hang with the supercars!
Oversteer Settings-The front Downforce should be maxed out and the rear should be as low as possible as this will make the biggest difference in giving the car more oversteer.
Also having all the front suspension settings low and the rear settings high will add oversteer as will having a camber in the range of 2. The brake balance should also have a low front setting and a high rear setting. Due to the High Camber Angle this setting will kill your front tires much faster than normal so expect your tires to heat up quicker than normal and wear much faster Understeer Settings-The inverse of everything above will increase the car's natural tendency to understeer.
The deafult settings for any FF car will give you sufficient understeer but if you want to increase it then having a low front downforce and high rear downforce will go a long way towards that. Also having low front suspension settings and high rear settings will do the trick also. Finally the Camber should be left at 0 for the front and rear and the Toe angle should be positive with anything above. FR Front-Engine, Rear-Wheel Drive Description-In this layout the engine is mounted in the front of the car whereas the torque is transferred to the rear wheels.
Z33 '05 Advantages-A high amount of oversteer, smaller cornering arc, great weight distribution, excellent drifting ability Disadvantages-Very hard to control, A high amount of oversteer, Heavier average weight Handling Characteristics-These cars generally have very strong oversteer. Corners are easier take than in FF cars but throttle control is paramount in these cars as flooring the gas while the wheel is turned will result in the rear wheels losing traction and your car spinning out unless you can control it.
This drivetrain is hard to learn but once you master it these cars are a a force to be reckoned with. Oversteer Settings-A low ride height combined with other suspension settings tilted towards the rear will give more oversteer as will having the rear downforce as low as possible and the front as high as possible.
The camber should be above 3 for the front and rear and the Toe angle should be somewhere above -. Understeer Settings-A high Ride Height and other suspension settings tilted towards the front should increase the car's understeer as will having the front downforce low and the rear high. A 0 Camber Angle and positive Toe Angle around about. This drivetrain is rarely used for sports cars anymore with the exceptions being Porsche and RUF. This is by far the most popular layout for Race Cars as most of the race cars in the game have a MR drivetrain.
The responsiveness on most of the cars I tested was great, both acceleration and braking were quick. In most cases the cars corner with little difficulty but spinning out can be a problem if turning hard while flooring on the gas at low to medium speeds. Oversteer Settings-Once again a high front Downforce and low rear Downforce will give the car extreme oversteer. Low front settings and high rear settings for the suspension will also increase the oversteer.
You should have a camber of at least 3 in the front and rear and a Toe of about -. Understeer Settings-For the race cars all you need to adjust is the downforce. If you find your race car is unstable or hard to control this setup will work great though it'll probably result in slower lap times. Since this differential can send more torque to the rear wheels or keep the torque equally balanced, these cars are very versatile. Examples: Audi R8 5. Cornering is a little harder due to the understeer but it's very hard to make these cars spin out.
One of the best traits of 4WD cars is the Torque Sensing Differential which lets you alter the handling of the car. Oversteer Settings-Like everything else having the suspension settings titled towards the rear will aid oversteer.
The camber can be left alone or set no higher than 1 More than this seems to make 4WD cars more stiff and a front Toe Angle of 0 and rear of -. Beginner Series B Amateur Series B Professional Series B Expert Series B Extreme Series B National B License C National A License C International C License C International B License C International A License C Karting Challenge D Top Gear Test Track D Gran Turismo Rally D Gran Turismo World Tour D Sebastian Loeb Rally Challenge D Trophies E Trophy 33, Drifting E Anyone who is familiar with the Gran Turismo series of games knows that "I want to throw the controller at the TV" feeling, and you'll probably still get that a few times while playing this game.
Hopefully, this guide will help you break only one or two controllers on your way to platinum. Gran Turismo 5 is hugely expansive. There are more than 1, cars that you can buy, own, customize and drive. You will be buying 7 cars total if you follow this guide.
There are myriad options for tuning your cars, most of which are irrelevant if you just want the trophy. With the right cars, you can have very competitive races in almost every challenge. With the cars you'll be using in this guide, you'll be lapping the field multiple times on most of the races. SO, if you want to enjoy all the facets of the game, I suggest you do so.
You bought it, enjoy it! If you get stuck somewhere and want help, search below and I hope you'll find the answer. Some of the suggestions I have below will help you get gold faster in some events, some will just save you lots of boring hours. Either way, I hope you enjoy your Gran Turismo experience. I did! There are 3 timed races in this event, and only 3 ways to get the gold.
You can buy a steering wheel. Or, you can take advantage of a glitch in one of the earlier updates to the game. If you buy the wheel, you probably won't need this guide at all, so I'll leave that option out. If you want to spend the hours and get these golds, I wish you all the luck in the world. I never did, though, so I can't really tell you how to do it I gave up after spending more than 13 hours on the first one.
If you want to take advantage of the glitch, there are a few things that you MUST plan for ahead of time: First, make sure you have access to an old copy of GT5. This is VERY important, as you'll have to downgrade to version 1. If your copy is one of the newer versions, all is not lost. You can use this for most of the game, but if you can buy or borrow an old one, do it.
Second, plan ahead for when you want to do the glitch. Then, you might want to mess around with the Red Bull challenge and see if you can beat it. This is what I did the first time I played through the game. The other good time to do it is as soon as you reach A-Spec level This is what I did the second time through the game, because I had to give my old copy back to the guy I borrowed it from.
The down side is that you won't really want to do any B-Spec races until you get this over with, leaving you with a whole bunch of B-Spec boringness after you gold the Red Bull Challenges.
I've found that it's not so bad if you space it out, and, say, write a guide while you're watching these races. It's your call, whichever way you want to do it will work with this walkthrough. Go ahead and do this, and unless you have an amazingly fast internet connection, you can plan on this taking an hour or two. These are all the software updates that have come out since the game was released, and the number of updates will vary depending on how many of them were on the disc you bought.
Do NOT attempt to play this game without updating your software, unless you want to add another hours to your game time. Next, you'll be prompted to preload course data to your HDD. Again, this will take 45 minutes or so 8GB of data , but will save more than that in decreased load times. You'll be prompted to pick a background color and theme. Make sure your color is one of the first 10 on the list. Also, use the very first wallpaper the one with the sunset.
Now, turn off the game! I know, you still can't race! I promise, this is the last step in setting up your breeze through GT5. Get on the Playstation Store and download the racing car pack. Trust me, it's worth the five bucks. Install this immediately, and you'll get 12 cars to use before you even run a race.
One of the cars is the Red Bull x Prototype. This car is disgustingly fast and can be used in about half the races. Some of the other cars will come in handy too, but the x is the pick of the litter.
Pick that and install the content you just downloaded. Now, you can go to GT Mode and pick up your awesome cars. They're under "Vehicle Delivery," and they'll ask if you want to use this car now. Go through and get each one of the cars, and when the x comes up, select "Yes. A preview screen will come up, and you'll want to immediately go to Driving Options.
Change your "Controller Sensitivity" to 7. This will make it harder to drive at first, but trust me, you'll need to get used to it because it will be necessary further down the road.
Now go ahead and lap the field 2 or 3 times, and enjoy your first gold trophy! So, why worry about shifting when you don't have to? If you want a more realistic feel, go for it, but you won't need it more than a few times to get gold in all of these events.
Buying Cars- Sadly, what seems to be the best part of the game, plays very little part in actually getting a platinum trophy. You actually only need to buy 7 cars to get a platinum trophy, and I've listed them in a separate section cars to buy. You may want to buy some cars before you win them, which is fine, or if you want to buy cars because they're cool, that's fine too, but you won't need them for the trophies.
If it's necessary, I'll include it in the appropriate section, but I've found that the default setting is almost always the best. Money- Again, you're not going to be buying a whole lot of cars. You'll need it for the "Penniless" PS3 trophy, plus you'll own a 20 million dollar car! The Ferrari P4 '67 is my favorite, but there are a few you can pick from. This is the order I will list them below.
The order you play them is really up to you. However, I'll give you a few pointers to get you through a little easier: First, and most important, Do not play the higher B-Spec races Expert Series and above until you have logged in for 5 straight days. You get a money and an experience bonus for each consecutive day that you load the game and sign in to the PS3 Network. You will need every single experience point you can to get your level high enough to play the last two races, and if you don't take advantage of this bonus you will spend DAYS grinding for experience in races that you can only watch, waiting to be allowed to run the last few.
Third, you will need to buy 7 cars eventually to complete all of the A and B-Spec races. You won't need it for a while, but you will eventually. You need it later for a trophy, so start checking the Used Car Dealership periodically and one will pop up eventually.
If it looks like you can get a gold on one quickly, play it until you do. You'll probably need to level up at some point for these, so when you run out of levels go in and run some A-Spec and B-Spec races. Run the A-Spec version, then immediately go and run the B-Spec version. You'll run out of levels eventually, so go back and get more licenses, or start some special events. You want to get your A-Spec level to 28 as quickly as possible. As you run the Red Bull races, you'll get more cars to go back and win other races.
You will also get money to buy the cars you need to win some others. You'll win your Jaguar, and you can then go back and finish a whole bunch of races you skipped. I will say this again, if you want to have more fun racing, choose a car that's competitive with the other cars. Play with the tuning, mod the car a bit, whatever you want. So much so, that I won't even list strategies unless I think they're necessary.
So, before we go race by race, here are a few preliminaries- First, if you missed it earlier, do the following: on the first pre-race screen that you come to, go to driving options and set your controller sensitivity to "7.
You may oversteer a little at first, and crash the car, but you'll be glad you did it when the races get harder and your car doesn't handle like a barge. Just search for Gran Turismo 5 and it will be there. Most of the races below will say "Use the Red Bull. Trust me, it's worth the 5 bucks. Again, let me remind you that using this car will also remove any challenge from the races you run with it, so if you want to try some different cars and actual strategy, go for it.
Third, if you're going to use a car that isn't the Red Bull, tune it. For every car you're about to race with, do the following: Go to GT Auto, and change the oil. Then, go to the tuning shop, and get everything it lets you get, including the weight reductions, chassis reinforcement, carbon hood, Level 1,2 and 3 engine tuning, ECU tuning, Supercharger or the highest RPM turbo you can buy , 6 speed transmission, Titanium Exhaust, etc.
If you're short on cash, you can generally get everything up to the turbo and still win, the race will just be closer. Fourth, here's a little B-Spec information: you are training a driver and coaching him through the race, instead of racing yourself.
The guy we'll call him Pete, but you can pick your own name , likes to make mistakes, sucks at passing anyone, and generally will make you shout at your TV, but if you put him in a car that's hp more than the ones he's racing against, you will probably win no matter what you do. Here are a few tips: 1 Before I forget, most of the races in B-Spec have tire specifications that are lower than their A-Spec counterparts. So, if you had a car that you crushed A-Spec on, and it tries to not let you use it for B-Spec, just look at the tire spec under the race event, buy those tires for the car you want, and try again.
It will probably let you use that car. Also like this game, most of them are irrelevant. The only things that matter are the "mood bar," which is the little thing that goes from blue to red on the driver selection menu and in the race, and the little headphones icon when you're racing, which is where you give your commands.
Some of the outfits came with later versions of the game, and when you downgrade, if your guy is wearing one of them, your game will get confused and not load.
Second, pick a guy with a natural disposition that's slightly above the midpoint on his mood bar. They run better when they're close to their natural mood, and this range is where you'll keep your driver for most of the races anyway.
By the time you need a second driver, you'll be destroying the field anyway, and probably not even watching most of the races, so you'll win by laps even if you try to lose.
Pace him down when he's about to max out on his mood bar, and keep doing this until he finally passes the first place car. After he does this, his bar will start dropping rapidly into the "cool" range. As soon as he gets below halfway, hit "pace up". This will keep him firmly in the lead, and keep him warm enough to drive fast without spinning him out.
Keep pacing up when he drops below half, and continue to do this throughout the race. Or, if it's obvious he's not going to lose, just set the controller down and go get some donuts or something.
Then, I spent WAY more money than I could possibly win with this car on every modification they would sell me. This got me up around hp. If you do this, you should now have the truck to win this. Go into your A-Spec race at Laguna Seca and you don't even have to drive well to beat everyone. Then, when you get to Daytona, you'll probably have a bit of an issue, as your top speed isn't high enough to keep up.
You need to make two adjustments in your tuning section. First, under the drivetrain tab, go to your "Torque Sensing Center Differential" tab one of only two times you'll ever use this , and change your torque split to Front "10" and Rear " If you must use the customized one, you can set the max speed up to around mph as well, but the standard transmission lets you get up to around mph at Daytona.
I got out to about a 4 second lead with this and then kept that the rest of the race. Now to B-Spec. I used the General Driving Strategy. My guy slid all over the track, but he was so much faster than everyone that he was still in first by the corkscrew and had a 5 second lead by the first lap.
At Daytona, I left the settings the same, and he ran about the same as my A-Spec race. He won by quite a bit more though, so I guess I have some room to improve! Just remember to keep pacing him up when you get below half, and you'll have no problem. Incidentally, this is one of my favorite cars to drive in this game, with its retractable spoiler and gazillion HP. Also, if you like launching yourself into the air, this is the car to do it in!
I honestly have no idea how I got this car. The boards say "Classic Muscle Car," which this is. Anyway, back to the race. This is the second event that you will need some special help with. I think I won this in A-Spec without tuning anything, but it was after I was a really good driver and I only won by a car length. The problem is that the Corvettes that you race against have a higher top speed than any car you can get for this, so you have to be able to catch them on the straight stretches at Monza.
Go into your tuning and adjust the transmission to mph top speed. This should be good for the A-Spec Race. Just make sure that once your guy gets into first, he stays above halfway on his mood and puts some distance between him and the Vette. Once you get ahead, you'll win easily. You will have to drive fairly well to win this in A-Spec, even with your awesome mods to the car, and you'll have to pay attention quite a bit on B-Spec as well.
Your car IS faster on the straights than the other cars, so once you get in front it took me 2 laps , you should put some distance on the field. Just don't let your guy get too worked up, or he'll slide around and crash into the barriers on the chicanes.
The car will handle more like a race car, and you WILL need to do this for the Schwarzwald B event anyway, so you might as well do it now and save the time later.
You must have a car that is from or earlier, and I think I won this with the Jaguar, but I had to be really patient and really good, and I barely won when I did.
There's a car in this series called the Chapparal 2J Race Car. From the back, it looks like a refrigerator with a fan on it. You'll see it from the back quite a bit, because it runs fast, turns fast, and accelerates fast. However, if you're willing to skip this race for a while and wait a bit, you'll be rewarded. You will win the Toyota 7 Race Car ' I think this is all they'll let you buy, but if not, buy more!
You should get your HP up to about , and your PP up to about Now, it's time to race. First, go in and set your Top Speed in your Transmission to mph. You'll probably pass everyone on the first turn except the refrigerator car. Then, watch how he runs the race and stay close if you can.
You CAN pass him in the Toyota, and this is fine if you want, but I ran a few laps so I knew what the track was like before getting into 1st. Your car will want to slide all over, so be cautious and stick to the driving line.
If You're getting lap times in the to range, you'll have no problem. Okay, on to the next race: Cote D'Azur. Racing fans and IronMan fans will recognize this as Monaco, and it's a bitch to race on, especially when your car is barely fast enough to keep up.
First, set your Transmission Top Speed all the way down to mph or so. To illustrate my point, I ran My winning time, actually, was The difference was that that damned refrigerator car started in 8th instead of first, so he had to come through the field just like me. I was in first until I hit a wall on lap 3, and whaddya know, there's the 2J going right past me! I was so tired of seeing that stupid fan that I got mad and just rear-ended him as hard as I could, and I ran him straight into the next wall and went by.
I stayed about 5 seconds ahead after that. The computer loves to have that 2J start the race in first, by the way, but every once in a while it will stick him back in the pack. If you are having trouble with the race, go back out to the race selection screen all the way to where you see all 9 Expert Challenges , and try to start again. Eventually, it will start him further back, which will make this easier.
Okay, let's try B-Spec. I'm going to do these backwards, because you should have your car still set up for Cote d' Azur. You'll have to use Racing Medium tires, but keep the setup the same. This race is 8 laps, and you may need all of them. I don't think the 2J is your biggest problem on this race, but you may want to make sure he's starting behind you, just to be on the safe side.
Your biggest problem is that your driver is a raving IDIOT, and won't pass another car on this race to save his life. When he does, he's usually so worked up that he crashes immediately and loses 4 or 5 spots. You could end up in 10th; you could end up in 3rd. It's all about chance. Just keep pacing him down so he doesn't get too crazy until everyone lines up for the big left hairpin at around 45 seconds. Your driver loves crashing into the walls at two places on this track, and the first one is the chicane that comes around the 1 minute mark.
Don't even worry about what place you're in, as all the cars drive closely. The trick is to get your pacing right, then look up and see if your car is competing.
As soon as he gets through the chicane, Pace Up once. As soon as that wears off, Pace down again, and maybe even once more. The second place he loves to crash is the last right turn of the track, the one with the bright black and yellow arrows on the wall. As soon as he gets through that turn, Pace Up three times, right in a row. You'll run him super hot, but he'll also do most of his passing here. That third Pace Up should expire as you're making the turn to the back straightaway, so Pace Down immediately to get him cool for that dangerous chicane.
Pace Up again, then Pace Down, then Up three times. Try to get a rhythm and you should see your position improving. Got it? One more time- Pace Upx3, Pace Down on back straight, get through the chicane, Pace Up once, Pace Down once, get through the last turn, rinse and repeat.
And, you will still lose half the time. But, you only need to win once, so go get it. I know we did this backwards, and the Deep Forest B-Spec will probably seem anticlimactic after the craziness of the last one, but I'm OK with this kind of anticlimactic. Remember to go in and set your top speed back up to mph, and enjoy being in first after a minute or so.
The 2J is still lurking out there, so you can't just walk away from this race, but if you Pace Up whenever the bar gets below half, you should win this race by literally a mile. This is surprisingly easy, since you tuned your car and they didn't. I thought it would be harder, but I crushed everyone just like the other races. It's split evenly 3 ways: 3 of the events are super easy, 3 are competitive but not hard if you have the right car, and 3 are the most difficult events to win in all of A-Spec or B-Spec.
It's not the best car for this race at all, but it's good enough if you buy all the mods and get your HP up to or so. Then, go to your tuning menu, under the Drivetrain tab, and buy a Torque Sensing Center Differential. Now, get ready to race. The first race is at the Cape Ring. You can be in first by the first turn, and even an OK lap will get you a 10 second lead.
The next race is at the Nurburgring. Again, you should have no trouble if you know how to drive this monster by now the track, not the car. For B-Spec, buy the Sports Soft tires and leave the rest of the setup the same. You can probably set the controller down for the Cape Ring race, but you may want to pace him up once a lap or so, just to keep him interested. Same with the Nurburgring: even with his reluctance to pass, you should be in first by the first minute.
The rest is the GDS, but I don't think you even need to watch. If you mod this car all the way up to HP or so, you will crush everyone in this series. You might just lap a few people in A-Spec. In B-Spec, you can just set the thing down and walk away? You're way faster than these guys.
You may have to make another driver, as you need 2 for the first time, and you may also notice your pit options are on for the first time. Ignore these, you don't need to pit in these races, but you will soon. When you get it through your tuning, you'll be over HP, and good to go.
In A-Spec, you shouldn't have any problems, as the better tires make a world of difference. The car does like to spin out, though, when you're coming out of corners. If you want a more comfortable race, you might want to turn on the Skid Recovery Force in your Driving Options. For B-Spec, you'll probably have to watch these races the entire time.
You're faster than everyone, but not by much, so go back to your General Driving Strategy and you'll be fine. They're harder than any of the Endurance races, and I'll list them from easiest to hardest. The first time I did this, I did it with the Shelby Cobra, which was definitely not enough car. Now that I have the right car and the right options, I think it will be much easier.
Your tuning should get you up around HP, and make sure you buy the Racing Soft tires. In A-Spec, start with Indy. This one actually isn't too bad: stick to about mph around each corner, you'll run laps that hover around 48 seconds, and you'll win by 4.
Now, there's Laguna. Oh, Laguna! Let me save you some trouble, and say this again. Without it, you'll be all over the place, and the competition isn't very forgiving. With it, you'll win by more than 10 seconds, even if you're not a great driver. B-Spec time! Watch this whole race, because your driver loves to do really fun stuff like slow down to on the corners if you're not watching.
There's not a whole lot of places to wreck the car, so we'll modify the driving strategy a bit to get him out ahead. What you want to do is pace him UP about 4 or 5 straight times at the beginning of the race. Get him all nice and pissed off. Keep hammering him until he's ahead by about 10 seconds sometime around lap 3 , then drop the controller and walk away. Even his dumb ass can't give up a 10 second lead in 15 minutes, can he? I'll let you know in 15 minutes - I'm watching it right now Well, he did win, but only by 1 second, so you may want to come back around lap 15 and get him interested enough to stay in front.
Now for Laguna. Forget the other 11 cars: your only competition is the damn refrigerator car. If one of those start up front, you'll have to catch him. It is hard to pass, but not nearly as hard as Monaco Cote D'Azur. If you find yourself right up on his bumper, just keep him calm and you'll get him within the first 3 laps.
Then, you'll probably get way ahead, but keep him over halfway on his mood meter or that refrigerator car will catch you very quickly. It is not misplaced. It is not easy. This means no added parts. When you get it, you will start with HP. The maximum is , and the only way to get it is to change your oil.
A bunch. To run the first A-Spec series, changing it once is enough, so go do that. You'll be at HP. Go to the tuning shop. Buy the Chassis Reinforcement, and some Racing Soft tires. Now, you have to tune the car.
This will give you a major advantage, and is one of two races that you actually need to get into all of that stuff. So, if you want to mess around and tune it yourself, feel free. I'm not interested in ride height and toe angles, so I just used a setup from the Internet.
That should be enough for now. Next, you're ready to race, so start with A-Spec and pick the series. There are 5 races, and you get points for winning each race, 75 for second, 60 for third, and so on.
You can still win the series even if you don't win all five races, so don't give up if you lose one or two. Also, since everyone is driving the same car, the second place car will not always be the same person.
This will help at the end, because you will probably lose the last race at Daytona. We'll get there in a minute. Start with Indy. If you can hold mph through each turn, you can run laps around There's your first points. If you can't win at Indy, don't go on to the next one. Just practice here until you're handling the car well, then start your series again.
Next up: Grand Valley. You can use the Settings tab in the pre-race screen to adjust your tuning before this race. Now it's time for a bit of coaching. As Jeff Gordon has no doubt told you many times, "remember, the car is heavy. Don't pass anyone on the outside of a curve, lest they bump you and put you into 's. If you're going around a curve, and you're in 1st or 2nd gear, you MUST feather the gas carefully, get straight again at the end of the curve, and only then can you accelerate for real.
Be patient on this race - it may take you a lap or two to get used to this stupid car and take the lead. Once you do, you should have no problem staying in front, as long as you watch the driving line and be judicious with your gas pedal. The win here will give you points, and at least a 50 point lead. You actually don't have to make any changes for the High Speed Ring: there are only 6 turns on this whole track, and you only need your brakes for 4 of them.
Take the first one full speed, the second around 3rd gear somewhere, then drop to 70mph for the third and 83mph for the 4th. Full speed for the little right turn there, then down to 3rd gear again for the last one. You'll be 5 seconds ahead by lap 3, and finish with another points. Next up: Laguna Seca. Drop your top speed all the way down to mph, as you need more acceleration than top speed here.
Your superior knowledge of vehicle tuning will give you more hole shot than any car on the course, and even average laps should find you ahead of the field by 5 seconds or more each lap.
Remember, though, to be easy on the gas through corners, or you'll plant a pound kiss on one of the walls and fall way behind. Boom, another points. If you are coming into race 5 with points, you should be home free, as I doubt the same guy got all 4 seconds. You want a lead that's more than points, because then you'll gold the series even if you finish dead last at Daytona. And you may finish dead last at Daytona. It's OK, it's easy to do.
All the other cars will be in one big pack, so they can draft and drive faster than you. You'll drift as you're going through the turns, and all it takes is one dude to clip your quarter panel and you're barrel rolling to loserdom.
If you miss a turn, the whole pack will get too far ahead to draft, and you'll lose like 2 seconds a lap all of a sudden. It's cool, just finish your race, take your gold, then come back when you have more hutzpah and some free time and get this gold separately. If you want to try for it now, though, I won't stop you. Set your top speed back up to mph.
Keep your left tires on the yellow line at the bottom of the track as much as possible. Don't ever take your thumb off the accelerator. If the pack catches you, and they will, let them go by. Get up and draft the left-most column, and pass them on the left. Just keep the shuffle going, don't try to block anyone, and don't get up near the wall. If you can survive until lap 9, it's time to plan accordingly.
If I'm back in the pack, I try to pick off the 3rd place car by the middle of lap 9 by gently nudging him as I go by. This leaves 2 cars to draft in front of me. On the first turn of lap 10, I go by the car on the left, or both of them if they're in line, and then I try to block the crap out of anyone coming up.
Half the time I waste the whole race by getting spun out, the other half I knock them back and win by a few tenths. Once that's done, take your gold trophy and go back to GT Auto. Change your oil.
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